In The Beginning ...
During my 6 year journey to ski every resort in New England, I fell in love with the small ski areas that dot the countryside. While the ski equipment may not always be the shiniest, the smiles are the brightest. From the "hand of God" t-bars of Maine to the friendly little local boy riding the lift with me at Herman Mountain to the 84 year old chairlift operator at Yawgoo. From Edna, my favorite 92 year old ticket window lady at Mohawk Mountain in Cornwall, CT (my home base for snowboarding) to the gentle giant with the full beard, thick glasses, LL Bean duck boots and plaid jacket who eased us onto the t-bar with grace at Titcomb Mountain to the camaraderie at the Mount Greylock Ski club where I helped fetch water from a spring for a pot of hot cocoa. From the town hill in Lebanon, NH where I watched in silence as the sun set and the lights began to twinkle and sparkle in the town below - yes, my thoughts always wander back to the small ski areas where the people are friendly, the snow is soft and the memories priceless.
New England Winter Photos
This is the future spot of New England winter photos. My attempt to move up higher on the Google search engine food chain.
Pats Peak, Henniker, NH
Pats Peak is a nice small mountain with a busy atmosphere and a beautiful view of a quarry. It ski school was busy churning out lots of new skiers.
Crotched Mountain, Francestown NH
Crotched Mountain. What a name!! I'm sure they sell lots of t-shirts.
The mountain re-opened 5 or 6 years ago after a 14 year hiatus. The lodge is a bit forbidding - somewhat reminiscent of a concrete army barrack. The mountain itself is rather nondescript with straight down the hill runs, but the view from the mountain clearly surpasses Pats Peak's stunning view of the quarry.
I had a blast on the slalom course which was comprised of brushes vs. poles.
The mountain re-opened 5 or 6 years ago after a 14 year hiatus. The lodge is a bit forbidding - somewhat reminiscent of a concrete army barrack. The mountain itself is rather nondescript with straight down the hill runs, but the view from the mountain clearly surpasses Pats Peak's stunning view of the quarry.
I had a blast on the slalom course which was comprised of brushes vs. poles.
Arrowhead, Claremont NH
Arrowhead is a town run ski hill. It has a rope tow but not to the top for the past 17 years. When I wandered in to the ski lodge, I thought it was a daycare. Maybe it was a daycare. Could not find the ticket window so I decided to just walk up the hill and board down.
As I walked up the old rope tow path, I noticed that the snow appeared groomed. Odd. Maybe it was just snowmobile tracks straight up the hill. Had a nice view of the little town from the top of the hill. Hiked over to the flagpole to make it an official summit. Peered over the Upper Face - looked like a sheer, vertical drop. Maybe that's why they took out the rope tow. Boarded back to the old rope tow. There was an old sign, Lion Tamer, a run to the left which also appeared groomed within in the last day or two.
Nothing like a good adventure so I pointed my board down Lion Tamer and rattled my teeth over the punishing frozen corduroy. Took my board off at the bottom of the hill - one run was sufficient.
As I made my way back to my car, I stopped to chat with a guy who was hopelessly chipping away at the frozen pond parking lot. He mentioned something about a snowcat lift to the top of the hill. Headed back to my car when I heard a snowcat being fired up. Marched back to the snowcat operator and asked if I may have a ride and then ran back to my car to get my board.
I boarded the back of the snowcat and held onto a tiny piece of rope that acted as a seatbelt. I asked Tom, the snowcat driver, what the traction was like - "pretty good" was his response. The snowcat violently lurched side to side in the real steep section. I started plotting my strategy in the event the cat flipped.
Hopped out at the top, tossed a wave and thank you to the driver and then boarded down Lion Tamer. Headed into the daycare center and plunked down my $5 snowcat fee with a smile.
As I walked up the old rope tow path, I noticed that the snow appeared groomed. Odd. Maybe it was just snowmobile tracks straight up the hill. Had a nice view of the little town from the top of the hill. Hiked over to the flagpole to make it an official summit. Peered over the Upper Face - looked like a sheer, vertical drop. Maybe that's why they took out the rope tow. Boarded back to the old rope tow. There was an old sign, Lion Tamer, a run to the left which also appeared groomed within in the last day or two.
Nothing like a good adventure so I pointed my board down Lion Tamer and rattled my teeth over the punishing frozen corduroy. Took my board off at the bottom of the hill - one run was sufficient.
As I made my way back to my car, I stopped to chat with a guy who was hopelessly chipping away at the frozen pond parking lot. He mentioned something about a snowcat lift to the top of the hill. Headed back to my car when I heard a snowcat being fired up. Marched back to the snowcat operator and asked if I may have a ride and then ran back to my car to get my board.
I boarded the back of the snowcat and held onto a tiny piece of rope that acted as a seatbelt. I asked Tom, the snowcat driver, what the traction was like - "pretty good" was his response. The snowcat violently lurched side to side in the real steep section. I started plotting my strategy in the event the cat flipped.
Hopped out at the top, tossed a wave and thank you to the driver and then boarded down Lion Tamer. Headed into the daycare center and plunked down my $5 snowcat fee with a smile.
Bretton Woods, Bretton Woods NH
I like Bretton Woods. It's definitely a cruiser mountain: nice views, lots of blue runs, excellent grooming. I remember finding a blue rated moguls run which I did over and over on my snowboard. Was sort of an initiation to moguls with my snowboard. Nice gentle moguls all to myself.
But then I looked up and saw a puff of smoke on the slopes of Mount Washington across the valley. It didn't register at first and then it hit me like a freight train - why that's the smoke from the cog rail ski train. I held out as long as I could until the anticipation overwhelmed me and I bolted to the car to speed away to the ski train......
But then I looked up and saw a puff of smoke on the slopes of Mount Washington across the valley. It didn't register at first and then it hit me like a freight train - why that's the smoke from the cog rail ski train. I held out as long as I could until the anticipation overwhelmed me and I bolted to the car to speed away to the ski train......
Attitash, Bartlett NH
The year I skied Attitash, it rained every other day that winter so I explored Attitash in the rain. Skiing in the rain really isn't too bad until you get soaked. In the beginning, the snow takes on a rather nice consistency.
The Balsams, Dixville Notch NH
Dixville Notch is that famous little town whose ballots (all 28 or so of them) are the first to be cast and counted in the Presidential elections. It's a tiny gem in this hectic technological world. It's comprised of a grand old rickety hotel, a ski slope, a golf course I presume and a few houses somewhere. Although it doesn't look Swiss, the setting is Alps-like.
I squeezed in a pre-Christmas trip to this far away, mystical ski resort many years ago. It was cold, bitterly cold and the sun hung low in the sky casting soothing late afternoon long shadows well before noon. The sky was pinkish/blue and the low sun made the snow sparkle. The ambiance was phenomenal.
Make sure you spend some quality time in the lodge too. I nabbed a quintessential rocking chair by the big stone fireplace and basked in the warm, welcomed heat.
I squeezed in a pre-Christmas trip to this far away, mystical ski resort many years ago. It was cold, bitterly cold and the sun hung low in the sky casting soothing late afternoon long shadows well before noon. The sky was pinkish/blue and the low sun made the snow sparkle. The ambiance was phenomenal.
Make sure you spend some quality time in the lodge too. I nabbed a quintessential rocking chair by the big stone fireplace and basked in the warm, welcomed heat.
King Pine Ski Area, Madison NH
King Pine sports trails in and among a great pine forest. I challenged myself to run one of King Pine's outer trails in one big swoop with as few turns as possible pretending I was competing in a Super G race in the Olympics. Two turns.
Wildcat, Pinkham Notch NH
Wildcat in the winter has the most beautiful view of Mount Washington. Absolutely amazing on a clear day. I savored the view until it disappeared among the snowflakes. Two to three hours later, the new snow made for perfect conditions on the steep runs which tend to be a bit icy. If you plan to spend the night, check out Joe Dodge Lodge at the base of Mount Washington. They often have a great ski deal with Wildcat.
Black Mountain, Jackson NH
There are two Black Mountain ski resorts in New England. This was probably the first because it may claim the title of oldest ski resort in NH. The other Black Mountain ski area is just over the border in ME.
It took four tries to ski this mountain. The first time I had come up for the weekend and skied Wildcat one day and the following day woke up to a pounding rain. Drove home dejected, but as I gained elevation on the Kancamagus it turned into quite a blizzard. Very impressed that my fiery red Pontiac Grand Am cleared the summit. A 5 hour drive home turned in to an 8 hour ordeal.
Only the beginner chair was open the second time I went.
The third time was a beautiful sunny blue sky day with a pleasant winter temperature. Perfect. We arrived and the lot was empty. Fire in the snow making shed had shut everything down.
Black Mountain is a classic mountain - narrow long runs with limited trail merges and an intentionally (?) slow chairlift. Speaking of the chairlift, I had quite an interesting experience. It was mid-week so the mountain was relatively quiet and apparently so quiet that the chairlift operator up and left mid-morning. It was rather bizarre. I pulled up to the boarding line. Kicked some snow off my board. Adjusted my goggles. Tugged on my jacket. Tightened up my gloves. Hmmm. Still no lift attendant. Well, the chair is moving rather slowly and nobody is lining up behind me. Hmmm. So I slid in to position and went for it. Chair came around the bend and I plopped down heavily onto the chair and was whisked away. That's a first.
This continued for an hour. I saw other skiers on the hill so they must have been doing the same thing but I never saw them getting on to the chairlift. It's a little disconcerting to approach a chairlift without an attendant. Sort of the like the world came to an end except for the incessant chairlift.
At 12:30pm a school bus appeared with children and skis spilling forth and the long awaited return of the chairlift operator.
It took four tries to ski this mountain. The first time I had come up for the weekend and skied Wildcat one day and the following day woke up to a pounding rain. Drove home dejected, but as I gained elevation on the Kancamagus it turned into quite a blizzard. Very impressed that my fiery red Pontiac Grand Am cleared the summit. A 5 hour drive home turned in to an 8 hour ordeal.
Only the beginner chair was open the second time I went.
The third time was a beautiful sunny blue sky day with a pleasant winter temperature. Perfect. We arrived and the lot was empty. Fire in the snow making shed had shut everything down.
Black Mountain is a classic mountain - narrow long runs with limited trail merges and an intentionally (?) slow chairlift. Speaking of the chairlift, I had quite an interesting experience. It was mid-week so the mountain was relatively quiet and apparently so quiet that the chairlift operator up and left mid-morning. It was rather bizarre. I pulled up to the boarding line. Kicked some snow off my board. Adjusted my goggles. Tugged on my jacket. Tightened up my gloves. Hmmm. Still no lift attendant. Well, the chair is moving rather slowly and nobody is lining up behind me. Hmmm. So I slid in to position and went for it. Chair came around the bend and I plopped down heavily onto the chair and was whisked away. That's a first.
This continued for an hour. I saw other skiers on the hill so they must have been doing the same thing but I never saw them getting on to the chairlift. It's a little disconcerting to approach a chairlift without an attendant. Sort of the like the world came to an end except for the incessant chairlift.
At 12:30pm a school bus appeared with children and skis spilling forth and the long awaited return of the chairlift operator.
Ragged Mountain, Danbury NH
One run on Ragged. Does that count? Conditions were a little ragged - too much wind on top of bitterly cold temps. Knew something was up when the lift attendant was spotted sporting orange cones. It was a cold ride to the top and a wind-swept hard pack ride down to the orange-coned closed chairlift. They graciously refunded my money. Will have to go back some day. It's a nice setting. As you drive in to the valley it looks like you are going to ski on a farm.
Also, the mountain gets an A for creative ski run names such as Town Meeting, Cabin Fever, Blueberry Patch and Barnyard.
Also, the mountain gets an A for creative ski run names such as Town Meeting, Cabin Fever, Blueberry Patch and Barnyard.
Gunstock, Laconia NH
Snowboarded Gunstock on my birthday and nearly froze to death. First time I actually looked forward to the chairlift with its reduced windchill to warm up. A combination of week day and sub-Arctic temps kept everybody away. It was like my private ski slope. The snow was hard but fast with good grip. Pretty view of the lake. For a mid-size mountain, the runs seemed really long. Enjoyed the black diamond run, Hotshot, and the blue/black run, Trigger. The gun theme carried on among all the ski runs.
Tenney Mountain, Plymouth NH
It was a cold day with a brilliant blue sky when I snowboarded Tenney. Had to wait a year for this mountain to re-open after some renovations. It's a small mountain but plenty steep - only a couple of green trails - with no lift lines. The view of Mount Moosulakee from the chair is magnificent. I really like Shooting Star. Beware of Morning Glory - the side hill cut is challenging, especially on tired knees.
Quechee Ski Club, Woodstock VT
Wow, it's almost time to ski again and I still haven't finished my Ski New England Guide! Okay, so if you have read any of my other Vermont posts you would have realized that Vermont has become a moving target for me. I thought I was finished with Vermont not once, but twice and still awaiting a potential thrice.
Quechee Ski Club - delightful, delightful, delightful. Maybe it was the $10 twilight pass from 2:00-4:00pm or maybe the 5 inch snowfall the night before. Maybe it was the soft late Saturday afternoon sun warming up the southern slopes or maybe the pastoral view of the valley, town and farms below in quintessential Vermont fashion. Maybe it was the wide open fields which gave it a western snow bowl feel to it. Maybe it was the gorgeous cross country ski trip that I had shooshed earlier in the afternoon or maybe it was the happy, friendly kids on the chairlift.
Hmmm.
p.s. Quechee was not originally on my list because I thought it was a private condo ski area. While in Utah a few years back, I rode the chairlift with, believe it or not, a ski patroller from Quechee. During chairlift small talk, I mentioned my quest and he asked if I had been to Quechee.
Quechee Ski Club - delightful, delightful, delightful. Maybe it was the $10 twilight pass from 2:00-4:00pm or maybe the 5 inch snowfall the night before. Maybe it was the soft late Saturday afternoon sun warming up the southern slopes or maybe the pastoral view of the valley, town and farms below in quintessential Vermont fashion. Maybe it was the wide open fields which gave it a western snow bowl feel to it. Maybe it was the gorgeous cross country ski trip that I had shooshed earlier in the afternoon or maybe it was the happy, friendly kids on the chairlift.
Hmmm.
p.s. Quechee was not originally on my list because I thought it was a private condo ski area. While in Utah a few years back, I rode the chairlift with, believe it or not, a ski patroller from Quechee. During chairlift small talk, I mentioned my quest and he asked if I had been to Quechee.
Whaleback, Enfield NH
Whaleback is what I would call a niche ski resort. Maybe it was the icy runs, but for such a small place, it seemed outrageously steep. I think it's owned by some former mogul champion and with good snow, this is the place for mogulers. Oh and check out the weirdly painted chairs.
Dartmouth Skiway, Lyme Center NH
Nice little ski area, oops, ski way. Not a ton of runs but long runs none the less with some good pitch. Maybe the only ski area in New England which is truly on both sides of the road (Stowe's two ski areas seem distinct). Some of the runs carry an academic air, like MBA.
Granite Gorge, Roxbury NH
Quirky. A Warren Miller feel all over it. Granite Gorge put in its first chairlift in 2006. At the time they only made snow on two trails, but that didn't stop the kids from doing amazing things - I saw an inverted aerial which I believe was part of some competition not just an inspired local on a casual run.
If you get chilly, hang out in the warming hut - a big yurt.
Cranmore, North Conway NH
The Cranmore sits in North Conway - definitely the dream of a developer more than a skier. It's sort of like an outlet mall on snow although it appears to fit the bill nicely for families with varying interests. I enjoyed the back side of the hill which has a large wide-open field.
Suicide Six, Woodstock VT
Suicide Six is a great place. Maybe it helped that I arrived within a couple of days of a 10 inch snowstorm topped off with another 5 inches the night before. The groomed trails were as smooth as butter and as quiet as could be without a hint of ice.
First I boarded the "Face" and then the suicidal, "Showoff", which must have been the run which earned the ski area it's name. It's a short run, but basically a precipice leading to the lodge.
I enjoyed the tiny bowl full of untracked powder on Bourdon's Bowl over and over. Then off to the grand Gully - a splendid ungroomed 10 acre meadow of powder on top of the mountain. What a blast. It felt like a back country playground for beginners and intermediates.
Bolton Valley, Bolton Valley VT
Bolton Valley casts a rather utilitarian, militaristic feel (maybe it's the voluminous lodge with too few people), but it is the site of one of my top ten ski experiences.
This joyous event occurred on the farthest left run when looking up the mountain. I had this run all to myself, so I did it 3 times in ecstasy. I had disregarded a sign strongly recommending disembarkment at the midway station because the top had thin, icy cover, but I was determined to get the view from the top so I persevered. As I nervously approached the end of the line, I had second doubts but the view from the top was well worth it: Stowe to the east and the Adirondacks to the west.
Other than boarding around some snowless spots on top, the run was splendid. Freshly groomed with no tracks, the snow was like velvety butter as I whizzed down the trail - sunlight dappling the trees under a late winter sun making the snow sparkle like jewels. Blue sky, calm wind, perfect temps, perfect snow conditions and only the sound of my board swishing through the snow....
Topped the afternoon off with a little antiquing - captured a Sadler teapot for my mother's collection.
Perfect day.
This joyous event occurred on the farthest left run when looking up the mountain. I had this run all to myself, so I did it 3 times in ecstasy. I had disregarded a sign strongly recommending disembarkment at the midway station because the top had thin, icy cover, but I was determined to get the view from the top so I persevered. As I nervously approached the end of the line, I had second doubts but the view from the top was well worth it: Stowe to the east and the Adirondacks to the west.
Other than boarding around some snowless spots on top, the run was splendid. Freshly groomed with no tracks, the snow was like velvety butter as I whizzed down the trail - sunlight dappling the trees under a late winter sun making the snow sparkle like jewels. Blue sky, calm wind, perfect temps, perfect snow conditions and only the sound of my board swishing through the snow....
Topped the afternoon off with a little antiquing - captured a Sadler teapot for my mother's collection.
Perfect day.
Smuggler's Notch, Smuggler's Notch VT
Although 10 minutes from Stowe by the Notch, it's a long 45 minute haul from the south in the winter because the notch is closed.
If you get a chance, take a lunch break at the hut on top of the hill. However, plan accordingly because there are no restrooms available (as of 2005), but you may get the opportunity to dine on venison stew - quite yummy.
If you get a chance, take a lunch break at the hut on top of the hill. However, plan accordingly because there are no restrooms available (as of 2005), but you may get the opportunity to dine on venison stew - quite yummy.
Haystack Mountain, Wilmington VT
Wow, Haystack was my first big mountain. Seems to have made the Lost New England Ski Areas website which is sad.
Would love to return and ski the mountain for it is here that I perfected my now defunct (but never retired) "slip and slide" technique. Feigning a slip, I would begin a contrived, controlled slide which took me down many a steep (blue) section. It's called, survival of the fittest.
Would love to return and ski the mountain for it is here that I perfected my now defunct (but never retired) "slip and slide" technique. Feigning a slip, I would begin a contrived, controlled slide which took me down many a steep (blue) section. It's called, survival of the fittest.
Pico, Killington VT
Choosing it over it's massive big brother, Killington, I have skied Pico several times. Once, it was AARP day and 1,002 seniors whizzed past me. Pico is simply an enjoyable mountain.
Magic Mountain, Londonderry VT
I like Magic. It's steep and unfortunately, often icy, so it's best to hit it after a good snowstorm. I like the feel of the place. It strikes me as a place where the real people (the locals) ski.
Sugarbush, Warren VT
When the weather is good, the views from atop Sugarbush are magnificent - especially the view of Lake Champlain. While Stowe has the best view from the chairlift, Sugarbush and Wildcat are tied for best mountaintop views.
Also, if you get tired of skiing and just want to enjoy a relaxing ride through the woods, hop on the chairlift to Mount Ellen for a nearly mile long chairlift traverse.
Also, if you get tired of skiing and just want to enjoy a relaxing ride through the woods, hop on the chairlift to Mount Ellen for a nearly mile long chairlift traverse.
Mad River Glen, Waitsfield VT
Everyone must ski Mad River Glen at least once, if only to ride the single chairlift. There are only three such chairs left in the US, and one is a bit out of reach in Alaska.
Riding the single chairlift is unique and fun, but the weirdest experience is observed from below. While skiing down, take a moment to pause near the chairlift and watch and listen. It's so bizarre. Except for the whir of the chairlift, it's silent. Motionless and expressionless, the bundled figures appear one after another as they are whisked away to some unknown fate not unlike the conveyor belt in some human meat packing plant...
Once over that experience, swoosh on down the slope with moments of solitude, compliments of the single chair skier spacer.
Riding the single chairlift is unique and fun, but the weirdest experience is observed from below. While skiing down, take a moment to pause near the chairlift and watch and listen. It's so bizarre. Except for the whir of the chairlift, it's silent. Motionless and expressionless, the bundled figures appear one after another as they are whisked away to some unknown fate not unlike the conveyor belt in some human meat packing plant...
Once over that experience, swoosh on down the slope with moments of solitude, compliments of the single chair skier spacer.
Stowe, Stowe VT
Stowe is magnificent with its dramatic view of Mount Mansfield's rocky face thereby earning it the honor of best chairlift (gondola) view in New England. Turn sideways and the view of the notch is nearly as dramatic. Other ski resorts have amazing, look-behind-you views from the chairlift but Stowe's requires no extra effort other than keeping your eyes open during the ride.
It's been a several years since I have been to Stowe and I believe a massive development project has been underway for several years now. One charming aspect which probably has been rectified (with new lodges, I am sure) was the small Mount Everest expedition which one needed to undertake from the main lodge up to the chairlifts.
It's been a several years since I have been to Stowe and I believe a massive development project has been underway for several years now. One charming aspect which probably has been rectified (with new lodges, I am sure) was the small Mount Everest expedition which one needed to undertake from the main lodge up to the chairlifts.
Brattleboro Outing Club, Brattleboro VT
Best kept secret for out-of-staters in southern Vermont. The Vermont Country Deli which is situated near the Bratteleboro Outing Club and less than a mile off of I-91 (Route 9 west). All of the food is extraordinary, but my favorite is the pulled pork with coleslaw. For the full culinary experience, the coleslaw MUST be located between the slices of bread. Tasty! Disclaimer - as there are no tables in the deli, all food is take out, but the ambiance of your car, if necessary, will not detract from the savory experience at all.
I stumbled upon the Brattleboro Outing Club one day on the way to Mount Snow. I knew it existed but hadn't bothered to find it's location because I was on the fence about including town hills in my ski quest. However, I spotted it one day and made a stop. It wasn't open yet but I made my way up the slope and did a couple of runs which landed me in the town ball field.
I stumbled upon the Brattleboro Outing Club one day on the way to Mount Snow. I knew it existed but hadn't bothered to find it's location because I was on the fence about including town hills in my ski quest. However, I spotted it one day and made a stop. It wasn't open yet but I made my way up the slope and did a couple of runs which landed me in the town ball field.
Stratton Mountain, Bondville VT
I really like Stratton. Too bad that it usually wins the award for the priciest lift ticket in New England.
One of my favorite runs is the green cruiser trail, Upper and Lower West Meadow. It's so smooth I can do it with my eyes closed.
The big HINT for those wishing to avoid the glitz of Stratton is to drive past the glamour to the Sun Bowl Lodge which is more reminiscent of the ole Stratton I imagine.
One of my favorite runs is the green cruiser trail, Upper and Lower West Meadow. It's so smooth I can do it with my eyes closed.
The big HINT for those wishing to avoid the glitz of Stratton is to drive past the glamour to the Sun Bowl Lodge which is more reminiscent of the ole Stratton I imagine.
Okemo, Ludlow VT
Basking in the warmth of a southern exposure, the mountain always looks happy as you approach it via Route 103. Okemo is like the well-dressed workhorse of the family. Highly functional, it lives up to its claim of nicely groomed wide-open trails. Have never had a bad day at Okemo although I have never had a bad day of skiing. Nothing extraordinary about the place but very pleasant.
My advice is ski early and hard at Okemo and then run to the Hatchery in town for the best sandwiches and mulled cider. They close at 2:00 or 3:00 in the afternoon.
My advice is ski early and hard at Okemo and then run to the Hatchery in town for the best sandwiches and mulled cider. They close at 2:00 or 3:00 in the afternoon.
Mount Snow, West Dover VT
I used to refer to Mount Snow as Mount Icy, but it has redeemed itself. It's southern New England's closest "BIG" mountain which probably lends itself to icier conditions, but it's doable as a day trip from southern locales.
In the last couple of years, I've had some really nice spring ski days at Mount Snow.
In the last couple of years, I've had some really nice spring ski days at Mount Snow.
Mount Washington Cog Railway Ski Train, NH
Had heard about this great ski train concept but wasn't sure if it had become reality until boarding at Bretton Woods one day when I spotted intermittent black puffs of smoke across the valley. It was the ski train and it was running! I had this tremendous urge to chuck Bretton Woods as good as the conditions were and run right over to Mount Washington.
I believe the ski train is still in operation and it's an adventure every New England skier must try. To board the old cog and chug up the hill to the water station, disembark and ski alongside the train on a 75 foot wide intermediate trail is pure delight. Most of the skiers took off like a bat out of hell, but I savored the moment and boarded at the speed of the train all the way down, waving with annoying frequency to the engineer who kindly returned each wave - repeatedly.
A bit pricey but well worth it for the experience.
I believe the ski train is still in operation and it's an adventure every New England skier must try. To board the old cog and chug up the hill to the water station, disembark and ski alongside the train on a 75 foot wide intermediate trail is pure delight. Most of the skiers took off like a bat out of hell, but I savored the moment and boarded at the speed of the train all the way down, waving with annoying frequency to the engineer who kindly returned each wave - repeatedly.
A bit pricey but well worth it for the experience.
Tuckerman's Ravine, Pinkham Notch NH
Well, I can't say that I really boarded Tuck's. Remember, I work for an insurance company which makes me by nature, risk averse. Several years ago (maybe a decade), a friend and I hiked up and camped out in the bowl in one of those lean-to shelters with sliding doors to keep out the wind. Basically, everybody is packed in and lined up in their sleeping bags like a can of sardines. I remember that night well. My friend snored louder than a freight train. All sorts of grumbling and complaining from complete strangers about the racket, but I just pretended to be asleep.
I made a major error in judgement on that trip. Not wanting to pack up a thousand pounds, I decided that the plastic boots that I had rented from EMS had enough flex in them to substitute for my real snowboarding boots. Egads. They worked fine for the hike up but when I stepped into the board - it was like I had a plank strapped to my feet. I still managed to board a little bit of Hillman's Highway and a bunch of the lower bowl.
The view in the bowl at dusk looking up at the surrounding mountains was most incredible. The mountains stood so tall and majestic with their white coats. Still chokes me up - god, what a sight.
We woke up (for those who were able to sleep) to a drizzly morning but the temps were cold and had frozen the snow. Thank goodness for crampons. We encountered one young fellow on the way down who kept losing his footing. We found him on his back like a beetle who can't get up. We helped him a few times but realized he was not going to make any progress in his sneakers on ice until the temps warmed up.
I made a major error in judgement on that trip. Not wanting to pack up a thousand pounds, I decided that the plastic boots that I had rented from EMS had enough flex in them to substitute for my real snowboarding boots. Egads. They worked fine for the hike up but when I stepped into the board - it was like I had a plank strapped to my feet. I still managed to board a little bit of Hillman's Highway and a bunch of the lower bowl.
The view in the bowl at dusk looking up at the surrounding mountains was most incredible. The mountains stood so tall and majestic with their white coats. Still chokes me up - god, what a sight.
We woke up (for those who were able to sleep) to a drizzly morning but the temps were cold and had frozen the snow. Thank goodness for crampons. We encountered one young fellow on the way down who kept losing his footing. We found him on his back like a beetle who can't get up. We helped him a few times but realized he was not going to make any progress in his sneakers on ice until the temps warmed up.
Steepest Runs in New England
This question came about last weekend while summitting Mount Washington and watching the skiers plunge into Tuckerman's Ravine (over 55 degree pitch in some places). According to the Ski Diva of theskidiva.com, here are the stats:
Goat (woods), Stowe: 39 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Paradise, Mad River Glen: 37 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
Main Gully, Gulf of Slides: 34 degrees for 800 ft. of vertical
Freefall, Smugglers Notch: 31 degrees for 300 ft. vertical
Devils Fiddle, Killington: 31 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
Ovation, Killington: 31 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
East Snowfields, Mt. Washington: 30 degrees for 600 ft. of vertical
Black Diamond, Sugarbush: 30 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
Outer Limits, Killington: 29.5 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Goat, Stowe: 28 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
White Nitro, Sugarloaf: 28 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Upper Wildcat, Wildcat: 27 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Hurricane, Pats Peak: 26.5 degrees for 200 ft. of vertical
Tight Line, Saddleback: 26 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
Superstar, Killington: 26 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
White Heat, Sunday River: 24 degrees for 500 ft. of vertical
Black Cat, Wildcat: 22 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Tim's Trauma, Attitash: 22 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical,
Mount Washington Auto Road, 11 degrees, 3500 ft of vertical
My parent's driveway, 10 degrees, 100 ft of vertical
Goat (woods), Stowe: 39 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Paradise, Mad River Glen: 37 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
Main Gully, Gulf of Slides: 34 degrees for 800 ft. of vertical
Freefall, Smugglers Notch: 31 degrees for 300 ft. vertical
Devils Fiddle, Killington: 31 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
Ovation, Killington: 31 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
East Snowfields, Mt. Washington: 30 degrees for 600 ft. of vertical
Black Diamond, Sugarbush: 30 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
Outer Limits, Killington: 29.5 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Goat, Stowe: 28 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
White Nitro, Sugarloaf: 28 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Upper Wildcat, Wildcat: 27 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Hurricane, Pats Peak: 26.5 degrees for 200 ft. of vertical
Tight Line, Saddleback: 26 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
Superstar, Killington: 26 degrees for 300 ft. of vertical
White Heat, Sunday River: 24 degrees for 500 ft. of vertical
Black Cat, Wildcat: 22 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical
Tim's Trauma, Attitash: 22 degrees for 400 ft. of vertical,
Mount Washington Auto Road, 11 degrees, 3500 ft of vertical
My parent's driveway, 10 degrees, 100 ft of vertical
Killington, Killington VT
Big. My first time at Killington, I barely met the description of an intermediate skier as I tackled Outer Limits and tusseled with the snow a couple of times.
Jay Peak, Jay VT
I love Jay Peak. Lots of snow and great conditions. My first time at Jay was also my first time in the glades which were filled with lots of powder.
Tried to ski Jay this year but arrived in a howling snow squall with Arctic conditions at the base so turned around and drove south and stumbled upon the Lyndon Outing Club.
Tried to ski Jay this year but arrived in a howling snow squall with Arctic conditions at the base so turned around and drove south and stumbled upon the Lyndon Outing Club.
Burke Mountain, East Burke VT
Snowboarded Burke during our first annual long weekend ski trip and stayed near a pig farm - tolerable in winter conditions. Burke is nice. I especially liked the snow covered evergreen trails. It was snowing that day which made everything serene and beautiful.
My understanding is that Burke is undergoing a massive mountain overhaul in an attempt to make it a "destination" mountain. Somehow, serene and "destination mountain" are not synonymous.
My understanding is that Burke is undergoing a massive mountain overhaul in an attempt to make it a "destination" mountain. Somehow, serene and "destination mountain" are not synonymous.
Bromley Mountain, Peru VT
Skied this mountain with my friend, Jeff, many years ago. It was a foggy day and rotten conditions. It was one of those days when the moisture in the air hardened up the snow after it was groomed. In other words, bullet proof. Should have known with the name, Shincracker, that it was not a wise choice for our first run. By mid-morning one trail, Thruway, had softened up and everybody on the mountain skied on that one trail for the rest of the day.
I would like to go back to this mountain and get a better feel for it.
I would like to go back to this mountain and get a better feel for it.
Mount Ascutney, Brownsville VT
Mount Ascutney is an impressive mountain with no ski trail scars visible from the highway although it is capped with an annoying tower. For many years Mount Ascutney was afflicted with the "no ski trail from the top" syndrome. A few years back a new faster quad was installed which put skiers closer to the top, but alas fell a few hundred feet short.
So no 360 degree view from the top, but a beautiful easterly view nonetheless. Apparently, it's a popular spot for hang gliders and paragliders in warmer temps.
Have skied/boarded Mount Ascutney several times with a former colleague of mine and her husband - Norm and Charli. Last year I was fortunate to board Ascutney after a 10 inch dumping of snow - pure delight. I love the open fields on Screaming Eagle and Terminator.
So no 360 degree view from the top, but a beautiful easterly view nonetheless. Apparently, it's a popular spot for hang gliders and paragliders in warmer temps.
Have skied/boarded Mount Ascutney several times with a former colleague of mine and her husband - Norm and Charli. Last year I was fortunate to board Ascutney after a 10 inch dumping of snow - pure delight. I love the open fields on Screaming Eagle and Terminator.
Mount Sunapee, Newbury NH
I skied Mount Sunapee sometime in the late 1990's (pre ski mission) in a snowstorm. As I made my way up I-91, my encounters with snowplows became less frequent to the point where I almost turned around. Exit 9 popped into view just in time.
My only impression of Sunapee in the snowstorm is moguls galore. It was my first encounter with skiing in over a foot of new snow and every run was bumped. Within a few hours my legs were shaking like jello on a wobbly table.
Stayed with my friend, Liz and her husband in New London, NH. The next day I cross country skied at a place nearby. It was a gorgeous day to remember - blue skies, soft fresh snow, birds chirping....
My only impression of Sunapee in the snowstorm is moguls galore. It was my first encounter with skiing in over a foot of new snow and every run was bumped. Within a few hours my legs were shaking like jello on a wobbly table.
Stayed with my friend, Liz and her husband in New London, NH. The next day I cross country skied at a place nearby. It was a gorgeous day to remember - blue skies, soft fresh snow, birds chirping....
Waterville Valley, WV NH
Tucked away in the southern part of the Whites, this ski resort has one of the nicest approaches. Just don't speed because there is always a police car lurking behind the next bend in the road. Conditions were far from perfect - few trails open and heavy wet snow.
I did return later in the season and skied at their Nordic center which was fun. However, it's really set up for skate skiing races so many of the trails appear more like highways than intimate cross country ski paths.
Boarded Waterville Valley for the second time last Friday (3/27/09) in beautiful spring skiing conditions. The view from anywhere on the slope is stunning and absolutely marvelous.
I did return later in the season and skied at their Nordic center which was fun. However, it's really set up for skate skiing races so many of the trails appear more like highways than intimate cross country ski paths.
Boarded Waterville Valley for the second time last Friday (3/27/09) in beautiful spring skiing conditions. The view from anywhere on the slope is stunning and absolutely marvelous.
Loon Mountain, Lincoln NH
Back in December 2003 I boarded three mountains - Cannon, Loon and Waterville Valley -while staying at the Wilderness Inn. It's a great little inn and one of the rooms has a big old fashion bathtub that requires a bit of climbing, but once accomplished, you are rewarded with a deep oasis of silky warm relaxing water.
So early in the season, Loon's trails were impeccably groomed considering the icy conditions. Terrific views from the gondola. I was so inspired by the views that two months later I returned for a winter ascent of Mount Lafayette with the AMC.
So early in the season, Loon's trails were impeccably groomed considering the icy conditions. Terrific views from the gondola. I was so inspired by the views that two months later I returned for a winter ascent of Mount Lafayette with the AMC.
Cannon Mountain, Franconia NH
Wow, skied Cannon Mountain way back in December 2003. Unfortunately, being so early in the season, not all the trails were open, but it was apparent that this mountain has some very steep runs. From the top, the narrow ribbon of highway down below looks surreal, like an artist's rendition of something far, far away.....
Lyndon Outing Club, Lyndon VT
So I thought I had completed my ski quest last year. Surprise! I guess it's a moving target which is exciting. Checking out a new map I saw a ski figure poised over Lyndon, Vermont. Could it be that I had overlooked a ski area?
Yes and what a delightful little hill. It was Sunday morning and they weren't open yet so I hiked to the top three times. Beautiful view from the top overlooking the town. For such a small ski area (serviced by a t-bar), it is surprisingly steep.
Yes and what a delightful little hill. It was Sunday morning and they weren't open yet so I hiked to the top three times. Beautiful view from the top overlooking the town. For such a small ski area (serviced by a t-bar), it is surprisingly steep.
Sugarloaf, Carrabassett ME
Sugarloaf is the grand daddy of all ski resorts in Maine and maybe New England because it has the biggest "big" mountain feel of them all.
My first and only encounter with the mountain was under duress. A big snowstorm was heading our way and I drive America's former number one rental car, a fiery red Pontiac Grand Am GT with southern New England low profile sport tires. Have never gotten stuck in the snow, but really big snowstorms are fairly uncommon down yonder.
When we awoke it had already began to snow and the daunting "S" curves below Sugarloaf on route 16 awaited us. We made a promise to ourselves that we would be the first ones on the lift and but be back in the car by 10:30am to make our escape before the big storm.
In that short time period, we actually got a good perspective of the ski resort, but I definitely want to go back and explore some more. With the snow starting to pile up, we cautiously made our way down the "S" curves and out on to flat land as we beelined it to Sunday River, temporarily leaving the snowflakes behind. We settled in at the inn at the base of Sunday River when the snow started to come down in a big hurry. It snowed through the night dumping a total of 16 inches.
Update: I snowboarded Sugarloaf this year (2009) under perfect conditions and I highly recommend Narrow Gauge. Quintessential. And to top the day off, dinner at Hug's Italian Cuisine restaurant (207.237.2392) is a must.
My first and only encounter with the mountain was under duress. A big snowstorm was heading our way and I drive America's former number one rental car, a fiery red Pontiac Grand Am GT with southern New England low profile sport tires. Have never gotten stuck in the snow, but really big snowstorms are fairly uncommon down yonder.
When we awoke it had already began to snow and the daunting "S" curves below Sugarloaf on route 16 awaited us. We made a promise to ourselves that we would be the first ones on the lift and but be back in the car by 10:30am to make our escape before the big storm.
In that short time period, we actually got a good perspective of the ski resort, but I definitely want to go back and explore some more. With the snow starting to pile up, we cautiously made our way down the "S" curves and out on to flat land as we beelined it to Sunday River, temporarily leaving the snowflakes behind. We settled in at the inn at the base of Sunday River when the snow started to come down in a big hurry. It snowed through the night dumping a total of 16 inches.
Update: I snowboarded Sugarloaf this year (2009) under perfect conditions and I highly recommend Narrow Gauge. Quintessential. And to top the day off, dinner at Hug's Italian Cuisine restaurant (207.237.2392) is a must.
Mount Abram, Greenwood ME
Ever have a ski day when all the stars aligned? I did and it was at Mount Abram and the day will be forever etched in my memory as one of my best ski days. Now, Abram on any ordinary day may be just another run of the mill medium size hill, but on February 28, 2008, it was a gem surpassed by no other.
Picture blue skies, no wind, abundant sunshine, birds merrily chirping away, 16 inches of untouched powder and 20 cars in the parking lot.
I skied the run under the lift over and over and over. Never tiring of it and every time finding room to put down tracks as I bounced down the slope and poofed through the snow. Eventually I moved farther mountain left to a trail that required a bit of a trail blaze through some trees. This run had even more snow. I literally threw myself down the hill plowing through tons of powder. Amazing.
By 2:00pm I limped back to the car. I didn't want to stop, but I had been running on empty for the last hour. From my first run until my last run, I put down tracks. These days are rare but when you get them, they are forever cherished.
ps. Mount Abram is open Thursday through Sunday. We lucked out and skied the big powder at Sunday River on Wednesday and then drove over to Mount Abram the next day and skied the 16 inches of untouched powder again.
Picture blue skies, no wind, abundant sunshine, birds merrily chirping away, 16 inches of untouched powder and 20 cars in the parking lot.
I skied the run under the lift over and over and over. Never tiring of it and every time finding room to put down tracks as I bounced down the slope and poofed through the snow. Eventually I moved farther mountain left to a trail that required a bit of a trail blaze through some trees. This run had even more snow. I literally threw myself down the hill plowing through tons of powder. Amazing.
By 2:00pm I limped back to the car. I didn't want to stop, but I had been running on empty for the last hour. From my first run until my last run, I put down tracks. These days are rare but when you get them, they are forever cherished.
ps. Mount Abram is open Thursday through Sunday. We lucked out and skied the big powder at Sunday River on Wednesday and then drove over to Mount Abram the next day and skied the 16 inches of untouched powder again.
Saddleback, Rangeley ME
Ode to the Kennebago T-Bar:
O Kennebago....
I long for your long gentle, quiet whisk up the hill
where only the sound of my skis on the snow is heard
and the only sight is of snow laden evergreens bowing to winter
work in progress ....
With its natural wood, the most beautiful ski lodge in New England resides at Saddleback. But Saddleback's greater claim to fame was home to the once world renowned, Kennebago t-bar. Yes, the highest altitude t-bar in New England.
My first encounter with the Kennebago t-bar was fraught with indecision. Upon reading the 17th warning sign, my friend and I, having spent considerable amount of time working for insurance companies, timidly turned away from the practically vertical venerable t-bar.
While boarding the lower mountain, I kept furtively glancing toward the top of the mountain. Finally I gave in and trekked back to the car and switched snowboard for skis. After a chairlift or two and a couple of runs later, I found myself at the base of the daunting t-bar. This time, chin up, I confidently skied up to the t-bar and was whisked away. Ahhh. The hand of God once again gently guiding me up the hill. With the evergreens drooping with snow and muffling the world except for the swooshing of snow beneath my skies and yes, the occasional clanking of the bar...such paradise... until I spotted my disembarkment destination glittering in solid ice. Egads.
As I let go of the t-bar, it shot away like a human cannonball making a terrifying whizzing sound. After some fancy footwork and ill-performed ski ballet, I found myself safely situated on snow not ice.
I rode the lift a couple times more in pure joy but alas there will be no more encounters with Kennebago for last summer it was dismantled to make way for a fancy quad...
O Kennebago....
I long for your long gentle, quiet whisk up the hill
where only the sound of my skis on the snow is heard
and the only sight is of snow laden evergreens bowing to winter
work in progress ....
With its natural wood, the most beautiful ski lodge in New England resides at Saddleback. But Saddleback's greater claim to fame was home to the once world renowned, Kennebago t-bar. Yes, the highest altitude t-bar in New England.
My first encounter with the Kennebago t-bar was fraught with indecision. Upon reading the 17th warning sign, my friend and I, having spent considerable amount of time working for insurance companies, timidly turned away from the practically vertical venerable t-bar.
While boarding the lower mountain, I kept furtively glancing toward the top of the mountain. Finally I gave in and trekked back to the car and switched snowboard for skis. After a chairlift or two and a couple of runs later, I found myself at the base of the daunting t-bar. This time, chin up, I confidently skied up to the t-bar and was whisked away. Ahhh. The hand of God once again gently guiding me up the hill. With the evergreens drooping with snow and muffling the world except for the swooshing of snow beneath my skies and yes, the occasional clanking of the bar...such paradise... until I spotted my disembarkment destination glittering in solid ice. Egads.
As I let go of the t-bar, it shot away like a human cannonball making a terrifying whizzing sound. After some fancy footwork and ill-performed ski ballet, I found myself safely situated on snow not ice.
I rode the lift a couple times more in pure joy but alas there will be no more encounters with Kennebago for last summer it was dismantled to make way for a fancy quad...
Herman Mountain, Skowhegan ME
I like Herman Mountain. Nothing fancy. Matter of fact lots of people milling around with outfits and skis from the 70's (well, maybe the 80's) - remember straight skis? Very friendly place.
Snowboarding mountain left which had an ungroomed stretch was my favorite. The runs may be short but so were the lift lines except for one hour before lunch when everybody decided to all participate at once. Shared many enjoyable conversations with the younger set on the lift. Did I mention, friendly place?
Snowboarding mountain left which had an ungroomed stretch was my favorite. The runs may be short but so were the lift lines except for one hour before lunch when everybody decided to all participate at once. Shared many enjoyable conversations with the younger set on the lift. Did I mention, friendly place?
Black Mountain, Rumford ME
There are two ski hills in New England with the same name and they are not that far apart: Black Mountain in Rumford, Maine and Black Mountain in Jackson, NH.
I apparently skied Black Mountain on one of their big promotion days - free skiing for all the kids in town or something to that extent. I got there shortly after they opened in the late afternoon and started to put down first tracks through 16 inches of untouched powder on a side trail when I promptly fell and found myself thoroughly stuck. By the time I extricated myself from the snow, 3 kids had whizzed by and put down first, second and third tracks.
I did one run and ran away.
I apparently skied Black Mountain on one of their big promotion days - free skiing for all the kids in town or something to that extent. I got there shortly after they opened in the late afternoon and started to put down first tracks through 16 inches of untouched powder on a side trail when I promptly fell and found myself thoroughly stuck. By the time I extricated myself from the snow, 3 kids had whizzed by and put down first, second and third tracks.
I did one run and ran away.
Sunday River, Bethel ME
I have skied Sunday River twice. The first time I remember debating whether or not to heed the bazillion warning signs on White Heat. I eventually plunged over the edge and if I remember correctly experienced a nice long, controlled slide on my back.
My second trip was last year, the morning after a foot and a half of snow had fallen. It was amazing. I remember throwing myself down double blacks on my board and being greeted with a ton of snow. Felt like Utah. Then in 2 hours, I was totally exhausted.
One drawback to Sunday River is the long slogs on snowboards between some of the mountains. Most unfortunate.
My second trip was last year, the morning after a foot and a half of snow had fallen. It was amazing. I remember throwing myself down double blacks on my board and being greeted with a ton of snow. Felt like Utah. Then in 2 hours, I was totally exhausted.
One drawback to Sunday River is the long slogs on snowboards between some of the mountains. Most unfortunate.
Titcomb Mountain, West Farmington ME
The epitome of Maine skiing is to be found at Titcomb Mountain. It's not big. It doesn't have death defying runs that you can brag about. There is no glitz. There are no high powered detachable quads to race you up the mountain nor enclosed gondolas so you can pretend you are outside. Nope, none of that. Just a couple of t-bars.
It's a must stop on the way to Sugarloaf or Saddleback and if you don't grasp the essence of this place, then just maybe you should turn around and go back home.
I darted in to Titcomb for the last 45 minutes before the lift closed after a busy morning at Lost Valley and a harrowing afternoon battling the rope tows at Spruce.
Upon entering the lodge to purchase my lift ticket, it appeared that I had to enter the food line so I did. Multiple replicas of my grandparents busied themselves behind the counter cooking up a storm of cheeseburgers, hot dogs and fries all with pleasant demeanor. Even the nice woman at the register pointed out that the lift would close in half an hour and asked if I still would like a ticket.
Snapping my skis on, I hurried over to the t-bar. Once again in reverent awe, I watched kids laughing and chatting as they expertly doubled up on the t-bar. When it was my turn, the gentle giant of the t-bar eased the bar into position and I was swept away up the mountain. Pure joy. The sensation of being whisked up the hill while my skis glided effortlessly over the soft snow through a stand of evergreen trees is extraordinary. To skiers, the hand of god.
After meandering among the evergreens as I made my way down the hill, I raced over to the lift for another ride. The man running the t-bar was quintessential Maine stock: a burly man with a big beard, plaid jacket and LL Bean duckboots but he moved with ease and gentleness while loading his customers.
This time I came down the big open hill as the sun began to set. I wish this mountain were in my backyard. Imagine a few runs every day to treasure the fresh air, the smell of evergreens and the pure sensation of skiing, one more time.
It's a must stop on the way to Sugarloaf or Saddleback and if you don't grasp the essence of this place, then just maybe you should turn around and go back home.
I darted in to Titcomb for the last 45 minutes before the lift closed after a busy morning at Lost Valley and a harrowing afternoon battling the rope tows at Spruce.
Upon entering the lodge to purchase my lift ticket, it appeared that I had to enter the food line so I did. Multiple replicas of my grandparents busied themselves behind the counter cooking up a storm of cheeseburgers, hot dogs and fries all with pleasant demeanor. Even the nice woman at the register pointed out that the lift would close in half an hour and asked if I still would like a ticket.
Snapping my skis on, I hurried over to the t-bar. Once again in reverent awe, I watched kids laughing and chatting as they expertly doubled up on the t-bar. When it was my turn, the gentle giant of the t-bar eased the bar into position and I was swept away up the mountain. Pure joy. The sensation of being whisked up the hill while my skis glided effortlessly over the soft snow through a stand of evergreen trees is extraordinary. To skiers, the hand of god.
After meandering among the evergreens as I made my way down the hill, I raced over to the lift for another ride. The man running the t-bar was quintessential Maine stock: a burly man with a big beard, plaid jacket and LL Bean duckboots but he moved with ease and gentleness while loading his customers.
This time I came down the big open hill as the sun began to set. I wish this mountain were in my backyard. Imagine a few runs every day to treasure the fresh air, the smell of evergreens and the pure sensation of skiing, one more time.
Lost Valley, Auburn ME
I boarded Lost Valley on one of those delicious winter days in late February when the sun is strong with deep blue skies framed by evergreens, the air is calm, the birds happily chirping away, the temps are pleasant and the world is perfect.
Lost Valley sports the most festive chairlift - yellow, blue, red or green chairs. It's a small hill, but it's open meadows are so delightful. Being one of the first on the lift, I had the soft, meticulously groomed snow to myself. The run right under the colored chairlift was short, steep and exciting and Big Buck was sheer joy with its swooping hills.
Lost Valley sports the most festive chairlift - yellow, blue, red or green chairs. It's a small hill, but it's open meadows are so delightful. Being one of the first on the lift, I had the soft, meticulously groomed snow to myself. The run right under the colored chairlift was short, steep and exciting and Big Buck was sheer joy with its swooping hills.
Shawnee Peak, Bridgton ME
Bridgton Maine is the land of big houses and big barns: attached together. Some of them are big enough to be a grammar school with gymnasium. The upkeep appears absolutely daunting. Oh, did you know that roof shoveling is a favorite past time in Maine? You can always spot the home of a roof shoveler by the telltale sign of a long ladder leaning against the house. Maniacs certainly like to shovel. Why they even plow their lawns for practice. :)
Bridgton is also home to Shawnee Peak aka "Squeaky Chair." One lift sounds like a playground swing set - rather charming unless it all falls down. Actually, it's rather amazing that I could even hear the chairlift since Shawnee Peak has adopted that annoying habit of blasting music at the base. The place was a beehive of people.
If you seek some snow solace, make your way mountain left to the quieter lodge.
Bridgton is also home to Shawnee Peak aka "Squeaky Chair." One lift sounds like a playground swing set - rather charming unless it all falls down. Actually, it's rather amazing that I could even hear the chairlift since Shawnee Peak has adopted that annoying habit of blasting music at the base. The place was a beehive of people.
If you seek some snow solace, make your way mountain left to the quieter lodge.
Spruce Mountain, Jay ME
This is it. This is the real deal. If you want to experience what it was really like in the early days of downhill skiing you must go to Spruce Mountain. The only way to the top of the hill is to take 3 rope tows (4 if you start from the parking lot).
At the first rope tow I asked the attendant if she knew of any tricks to riding the rope tow gracefully. Her reply, "don't know, never tried."
I lined up, reached down and picked up the rope and was immediately yanked away but not for long. I soon dropped the rope and attempted to skate away from the burly beast to the next "lift."
Lined up again, reached down and picked up the row and was whisked away in a most startling manner. The track was rough and pitted with lines that were starting to harden. I was grateful when it was time to drop the rope again. To get to the next lift I had to slide down an icy gully and skate up to the final rope tow.
It was rather weird. The rope was slithering away but not a soul in sight. Guess it was self serve. So I lined myself up for a third time, reached down and attempted to lift the heavy rope. And was it heavy! My arms ached as I was pulled up the hill. It took all the strength I could muster to not let go and end the torture. Finally the end was in sight.
Although the slopes were probably groomed in the morning, the late afternoon chill was hardening what was left of the corduroy into a teeth rattling experience. Back to the third rope for another lift to the top. This time I discovered the secret of rope tows: position yourself immediately behind a tall person and you will have a delightful ride up the mountain as he or she does all the heavy lifting of the rope.
As I made my way down the slope, I admired the view of a big mill on the river. Then, with aching arms and scuffed mittens, I called it a day.
p.s. I believe I was the only adult skier on the slope.
At the first rope tow I asked the attendant if she knew of any tricks to riding the rope tow gracefully. Her reply, "don't know, never tried."
I lined up, reached down and picked up the rope and was immediately yanked away but not for long. I soon dropped the rope and attempted to skate away from the burly beast to the next "lift."
Lined up again, reached down and picked up the row and was whisked away in a most startling manner. The track was rough and pitted with lines that were starting to harden. I was grateful when it was time to drop the rope again. To get to the next lift I had to slide down an icy gully and skate up to the final rope tow.
It was rather weird. The rope was slithering away but not a soul in sight. Guess it was self serve. So I lined myself up for a third time, reached down and attempted to lift the heavy rope. And was it heavy! My arms ached as I was pulled up the hill. It took all the strength I could muster to not let go and end the torture. Finally the end was in sight.
Although the slopes were probably groomed in the morning, the late afternoon chill was hardening what was left of the corduroy into a teeth rattling experience. Back to the third rope for another lift to the top. This time I discovered the secret of rope tows: position yourself immediately behind a tall person and you will have a delightful ride up the mountain as he or she does all the heavy lifting of the rope.
As I made my way down the slope, I admired the view of a big mill on the river. Then, with aching arms and scuffed mittens, I called it a day.
p.s. I believe I was the only adult skier on the slope.
Camden Snow Bowl, Camden ME
Quick, name the only ski resort in New England which has a view of the ocean? The northern Atlantic always looks cold and rather intimidating, but during the winter it almost looks cold and dense enough to walk on. Regardless, it is a stunning sight.
Having spent the last couple of days hitting small ski slopes with real Mainiacs, Camden Snow Bowl was a shock to my system. Standing in the lift line, my 10 year old snowboard appeared "relic" and my "one more season...." blue shell looked homeless compared to the shiny new equipment and glitzy ski outfits swarming around me.
Apparently this is part of the "Gold Coast" of Maine which was confirmed when I overheard a woman hurrying past the lift line say to her husband, "you take Renaissance and I'll take Kate to the bunny slope." In addition, two days prior, according to a reliable source in line, John Travolta had rented out the entire tubing operation for his family on Christmas morning. What a Christmas present!
Having spent the last couple of days hitting small ski slopes with real Mainiacs, Camden Snow Bowl was a shock to my system. Standing in the lift line, my 10 year old snowboard appeared "relic" and my "one more season...." blue shell looked homeless compared to the shiny new equipment and glitzy ski outfits swarming around me.
Apparently this is part of the "Gold Coast" of Maine which was confirmed when I overheard a woman hurrying past the lift line say to her husband, "you take Renaissance and I'll take Kate to the bunny slope." In addition, two days prior, according to a reliable source in line, John Travolta had rented out the entire tubing operation for his family on Christmas morning. What a Christmas present!
Eaton Mountain, Skowhegan ME
When I arrived early in the morning after a nice 5 inch snowfall, Eaton Mountain had the look of a ski slope caught off guard. It certainly didn't look open, but there were a few cars parked in the lot so I tested a few door handles until I found one that let me enter the lodge. When I stepped inside I found a bunch of people gathered around drinking coffee with the looks of a promising painting party. I briefly explained my quest and asked permission to board one of their trails. The young owner graciously said, "oh sure." And someone else chimed in that the trail to the far right had the most snow on it.
Apparently the young owner had recently purchased or inherited the slope from her grandfather. Looked like the mountain and lodge were in for some energetic "spring cleaning." Amazing how things collect over time like old lift chairs, stray cars, abandoned snowmobiles....
Anyways, I hiked up most of the hill, strapped on my board and had a delightful time picking my way down looking for the best clumps of powdery white snow under a sparkling early morning blue sky. I wish the best for little Eaton Mountain.
Apparently the young owner had recently purchased or inherited the slope from her grandfather. Looked like the mountain and lodge were in for some energetic "spring cleaning." Amazing how things collect over time like old lift chairs, stray cars, abandoned snowmobiles....
Anyways, I hiked up most of the hill, strapped on my board and had a delightful time picking my way down looking for the best clumps of powdery white snow under a sparkling early morning blue sky. I wish the best for little Eaton Mountain.
Big Squaw, Greenville ME
The approach into town for this ski area is one of the prettiest. As you come over a rise, a big beautiful frozen lake sprinkled with islands suddenly unfolds before you - Moosehead Lake.
Big Squaw wins the award for the eeriest ski area. While the view of the lake from Big Squaw should be equally stunning, its chairlift stops well short of the summit. Apparently, 3 years ago, the lift to the summit was abandoned.
This oddness is compounded by a rather haunting encounter with a desolute structure mid mountain - complete with peeling paint and torn drapes amid a thick somber air. And was that my imagination or did I just catch a glimpse of a pale, mournful face with ski hat peeking from behind the curtain?? Still makes me shudder thinking about this abandoned lodging on the hill.
From what I gathered upon inquiry at the ski lodge, is that some eccentric owns the place and will neither sell it to interested buyers nor maintain it properly. Quite a shame because it has the potential to be a very attractive ski area.
Big Squaw wins the award for the eeriest ski area. While the view of the lake from Big Squaw should be equally stunning, its chairlift stops well short of the summit. Apparently, 3 years ago, the lift to the summit was abandoned.
This oddness is compounded by a rather haunting encounter with a desolute structure mid mountain - complete with peeling paint and torn drapes amid a thick somber air. And was that my imagination or did I just catch a glimpse of a pale, mournful face with ski hat peeking from behind the curtain?? Still makes me shudder thinking about this abandoned lodging on the hill.
From what I gathered upon inquiry at the ski lodge, is that some eccentric owns the place and will neither sell it to interested buyers nor maintain it properly. Quite a shame because it has the potential to be a very attractive ski area.
Baker Mountain, Moscow ME
Baker Mountain was unfortunately plagued with the same snow issues as Mount Jefferson. Too bad because it had a t-bar. It appears to be a nice little ski club which was established in 1937. The snow was bullet proof, but I gingerly made my way up the hill a few feet and took 4 turns on ice. Mission accomplished as I headed back to my car and watched a fully loaded log truck rumble by at highway speed.
Mount Jefferson, Lee ME
Well, my timing was off by a week for Mt. Jefferson because one week earlier, Maine had received a 2 foot dumping of snow and every ski trail on every mountain was probably open and then a few days before my journey - heavy rain - which explained the abundance of parking lots posing as skating rinks.
This looks like a really neat place with some rather steep, menacing runs. Unfortunately, since it relies on natural snow, it's cover was a little bare in spots and icy. Made two turns on my snowboard, gave a nod to the mountain and hightailed it back to my car.
This looks like a really neat place with some rather steep, menacing runs. Unfortunately, since it relies on natural snow, it's cover was a little bare in spots and icy. Made two turns on my snowboard, gave a nod to the mountain and hightailed it back to my car.
Quoggy Jo, Presque Isle ME
With a name like Quoggy Jo, how can you not like this place? Tiny, yes. Fun - yes, yes. I skied Quoggy Jo in the beautiful slanting rays of a late afternoon sun. As this was only my second stop in Maine and the first with a t-bar, it was the beginning of my t-bar addiction. I was amazed at the kids who could ride this contraption double. I have not yet succeeded in this endeavor maybe because no one wants to experiment with me.
Here's the other beautiful part about Quoggy Jo which sets it apart from many ski areas - affordable, good ski food. Although I still wonder about the chemical content in the RED (very red) hot dogs, they cost just $1.00. So for $3.25 I had a hot dog, a grilled cheese sandwich and a PowerAde.
Here's the other beautiful part about Quoggy Jo which sets it apart from many ski areas - affordable, good ski food. Although I still wonder about the chemical content in the RED (very red) hot dogs, they cost just $1.00. So for $3.25 I had a hot dog, a grilled cheese sandwich and a PowerAde.
Big Rock, Mars Hill ME
As you approach this ski area from several miles away, just like Blue Hills in MA, a looming mound of earth suddenly presents itself - Big Rock. There is an extraterrestrial feel about the area including the town's name, Mars Hill. The ski area is home to a towering windmill which takes on massive dimensions as the chairlift brings you closer and closer to this rather awe-inspiring monster. Although it is a very "green" thing to do, it is somewhat disconcerting.
I witnessed some incredible ski jumping by the locals and experienced some rather surprisingly steep trails for a small hill. The ski runs were etched in to a nice stand of birch and aspen trees which caught the filtered sun of a winter afternoon quite pleasantly.
I witnessed some incredible ski jumping by the locals and experienced some rather surprisingly steep trails for a small hill. The ski runs were etched in to a nice stand of birch and aspen trees which caught the filtered sun of a winter afternoon quite pleasantly.
Lonesome Pine, Fort Kent ME
Skiing Maine is a must. It changed my life. I am now a devoted t-bar convert.
Having driven what seemed like a 1,000 miles since leaving my house at 4:00am in the morning after Christmas with stops at Big Rock and Quoggy Jo, I finally reached the outpost of Maine, Fort Kent, at 6:00pm just in time for some night skiing at Lonesome Pine.
The logistics of reaching Fort Kent - hundreds of miles, many without another car, the cost of gasoline and outrunning a storm zoomed through my head and made me question the soundness of my ski quest. I still needed to drop down Route 11 in the dark to put 2 hours between me and the northern border. Always get a bit anxious about driving around Maine at dusk with the potential dreaded moose encounter.
Inside, the lodge was a hubbub of people bristling about, but outside the night air was cold, crisp and clear. Snapped on my skis since t-bars and snowboards do not mix well for me at all and skated to the t-bar.
In southern New England, rope tows, t-bars, j-bars and the like, usually spell disaster because the snow is icy and hard with pre set ruts that pull and tear at your skis while pushing them in awkward directions as you fearfully cling to the tow. Not so in Maine. I was pleasantly surprised that the t-bar scooped me up nicely and sent me along my way with my skis comfortably gliding over the powder snow. It was silent except for a slight whooshing sound beneath the skis and an occasional shriek from skiers and snowboarders finding their way down the hill. Feeling enough calm, I looked around and enjoyed the immediate scenery - frosted evergreens against the dark black night. And then I became cognizant of this strong hand (the t-bar) gently guiding me up the slope to bigger and better things. It was not hurried, not frenetic but a firm push that moved with purpose - like the hand of God delivering me to some unknown destination.
And then I arrived at the top and on my own as the t-bar clankingly sprang away. From the top I could see what appeared to be other lighted trails all around the valley until I realized that I was looking at street lamps and snowy roads.
My descent was slightly harrowing with teenagers literally flying by me, but I eagerly awaited my quiet time on the t-bar for the return trip. I endured several ski runs just to experience "the hand of God" one more time.
Having driven what seemed like a 1,000 miles since leaving my house at 4:00am in the morning after Christmas with stops at Big Rock and Quoggy Jo, I finally reached the outpost of Maine, Fort Kent, at 6:00pm just in time for some night skiing at Lonesome Pine.
The logistics of reaching Fort Kent - hundreds of miles, many without another car, the cost of gasoline and outrunning a storm zoomed through my head and made me question the soundness of my ski quest. I still needed to drop down Route 11 in the dark to put 2 hours between me and the northern border. Always get a bit anxious about driving around Maine at dusk with the potential dreaded moose encounter.
Inside, the lodge was a hubbub of people bristling about, but outside the night air was cold, crisp and clear. Snapped on my skis since t-bars and snowboards do not mix well for me at all and skated to the t-bar.
In southern New England, rope tows, t-bars, j-bars and the like, usually spell disaster because the snow is icy and hard with pre set ruts that pull and tear at your skis while pushing them in awkward directions as you fearfully cling to the tow. Not so in Maine. I was pleasantly surprised that the t-bar scooped me up nicely and sent me along my way with my skis comfortably gliding over the powder snow. It was silent except for a slight whooshing sound beneath the skis and an occasional shriek from skiers and snowboarders finding their way down the hill. Feeling enough calm, I looked around and enjoyed the immediate scenery - frosted evergreens against the dark black night. And then I became cognizant of this strong hand (the t-bar) gently guiding me up the slope to bigger and better things. It was not hurried, not frenetic but a firm push that moved with purpose - like the hand of God delivering me to some unknown destination.
And then I arrived at the top and on my own as the t-bar clankingly sprang away. From the top I could see what appeared to be other lighted trails all around the valley until I realized that I was looking at street lamps and snowy roads.
My descent was slightly harrowing with teenagers literally flying by me, but I eagerly awaited my quiet time on the t-bar for the return trip. I endured several ski runs just to experience "the hand of God" one more time.
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